A70 H.I.D Conversion Kit

[Bondango]

Well we all know How bad the lighting can be on the mk3, so why not go with the times and Fit a HID kit?

This HID H4 light conversion kit Is the Hi & Lo beam Type.
The benefit of this kit is that it operates both your hi & lo beam in one bulb. This bulb has a sliding mechanism that retracts the bulb to adjust the beam, the change of the beam is instant as there is a common misconception that there's a delay in between, this is definitely not the case as the change is instant.

All The Kits come with a 12 month warranty, we will replace any faulty part or component within the warranty period. They are Fully E-Marked, including Ballasts.

We also supply other Single Bulb Kits H1, H3, H4(Lo), H7, H9, H11, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007

The Colour Chart below will hwlp choose your Bulb Temp





Price Per Kit is £125 Delivered (48hr)

Paypal fee's Apply

[supradupra.com]

Thats a bargain and a half!!! Most interested.

What do ya recon's the best colour to go for? I'd say about 6000K should do the trick?

[Bondango]

8K seems to be the Norm with the mkiv ones Stuey as its not to Bright. We can also offer a Dual Kit with contains 4 ballasts and a dual filiment bulb but its £60 more.
The price is excellent as before we couldnt get it at that in a group buy scenario.

Marty

[mrroverrover]

Very very tempted with these, are they an on going buy? cos I'll probably wait till the winter months.

[Bondango]

Yes mate, the Price may go up by £5 as we getting thse out for next day delivery with Royal Mail Special.

[supradupra.com]

Ritey Kiddys, though I better follow up on the HID light conversion (no not a cheap attempt at a South African accent, although if it helps, feel free to imagine one)

Firstly let's intruduce you to the HID lamp module, High Intensity Discharge using Xenon gas.

The xenon discharge capsule is mounted on a mechanism that allows it to move up and down within a baffle. This baffle stops light hitting certain parts of the reflector to achieve LO & HI beams and allow the reflector and complex lense to function on the head lamp unit.

The lamp strikes using high voltage (HT) supplied by the ballast. The start voltage is around 25,000V and the holding voltage around 8000V this is why they come on with a "flash" then settle.

Don't touch the glass bulbs, same as halogen and be careful not to damage the HT cables (thicker) or tie them too tightly as the HT will track out and your lights will pack up!



Below you can see a lit HID conversion compared to a lit Halogen unit.



And again, casting a beam against a very pretty, showbiz, piece of random plaster board.



Note the HID lamp units are a direct fit into the stock H4 units and retain a 100% factory look, however the lamp will need a slight tweek to work with our reflectors so as to cast proper beam patterns and not blind people.

Below you can see an un-modded lamp fitted to a stock unit, set to LO beam.

Note the "hot" spot on the bottom lense. This creates the incorrect beam pattern and lights the trees. driving with these will result in many hand gestures from other motorists and the possibility of cheap, low quality, second hand fast food being thrown at your car.



Read on to find out how to solve this....

[supradupra.com]

So whats causing the "hot" spot in our H4 units when using the HID lamp?

Well simply the HID capsule is still slightly visable to the lower reflector of the head lamp assy when LO position is selected. This is simply down to the design of our head light units.



The solution is extremely simple. All we need to do is extend the baffle on the lamp slightly to cover the HID capsule more when in LO position.

The oblong cutout here is for the HI position. In HI mode the lamp moves down to reveal the HID capsule to the entire reflector therefore, our mod must still allow this to function properly.

All that is needed is a thin piece of metal - I used an old flood light reflector, cut to the correct size and rolled round slightly so we can fit it to the lamps baffle and cover the HI apeture slightly more.

The picture below shows the extra baffle fitted to the lamp in LO mode. I formed it round a marker pen body to get the curve and drilled it to allow fitting to the lamp assy using an existing screw so as not to alter the lamp.



When the lamp moves to the HI position the HID capsule is still visable to give HI beam.



The result of the modded lamp when fitted into our H4 units is now a perfect beam pattern without light seepage (he he seepage)



So, our light source is now ready for fitting to the car which, again is real simple!

The rubber cap on the rear of our units will need to be drilled out in the centre to 25mm. The rubber then needs to be slit at the bottom and fitted round the lamp. A zip tie then holds the boot firmly round the lamp.

Water ingress is not an issue as the flip up headlights protect the unit fully when fitted, you would have to take the car on a water sports hoilday to risk getting water in the units past the cut seal. Its more for dirt than anything.



Now fitting the ballasts to the car.

[supradupra.com]

The following is based on fitting to a 1991 turbo but, I don't think things should be much different on other models.

With the headlamp modules removed you have just enough room to get your hands in behind the bumper - or at least I can but, I have been described as being "the width of a pamphlet" before now and have fairly dextrous hands for reaching into things such as dash boards...

So to be "PC" if your a bit lardy and can't fit your elephant hands in there, borrow a 12 year old who's good in CDT Lubricant may enable you to use your own arms however I believe it's illegal to use this on a 12 year old....

REMOVE THE RETRACTOR (RTR) FUSE! If the headlights decide to lower on you it will hurt, probably just as much as the hood smacking your head when the gentle 80MPH summer breeze whips up!

Using the supplied brackets the ballasts will fit below the headlights without the need for drilling. The nose cone former has a pair of mounting bolts just below each headlight.

Get the child to remove the lower bolt and slightly loosen the upper one. This will allow you to slide the bracket mount up behind the nose cone former.

You can then use the lower bolt to secure both items AND act as an earthing point for the HID kit. Tighten both bolts after.



This is a shott from inside the bumper obtained by a trained mouse. It's OK, the mouse was destroyed after use.



The cabling between the 2 ballasts will run up behind each nose cone bracket and be totally hidden.

Mount the part of the kit with ballast and relay module on the battery side as you need to pick up a +12V supply from the battery, running the wire directly through the gromet below the passenger head lamp. removing the battery will aid you. The relay module can be zip tied to the car loom below the passenger headlight.

On the drivers side pull the stock H4 lamp connector out through the bottom of the headlamp frame and zip tie back to the car loom that runs behind the head lamp. Spray the connector with WD40 to prevent corrosion.

The drivers side one will need connecting to the HID kit via the suplied interface. Tape this one up to keep connectors together and again apply WD40.

Now pop your headlights back in with the modded lamps fitted running the cables through the back of the headlight frame.

The wires will need to be tied back into the correct position as below to prevent fouling when the headlights raise ond lower. I found drilling the plastic frames where indicated achieved the correct routing to do this.



Now you should be done and ready to test - this is best carried out with the battery fitted and the RTR fuse put back in, remember to remove the 12 year old from the front of the car and apply plasters to arms.

Test the lights which should both light and "pop" in and out with HI & LO selections. Worth checking nothing fouls when the lights raise and lower before fitting the outer black trim.

You should now be able to see at night and the HID's use less power too The ballasts will make a whining noise due to the HT circuit.





Before you drive at nite don't be a trud! - pop along to your friendly MOT station and get them to check your headlight aim!!

You won't be disappointed by this upgrade! Law is the usual vague affair, if you take it literally any HID headlight is technically illegal custom or factory however, the general rule is, if they don't dazzle, produce the correct aim and beam pattern, are E marked and don't mug old people your just fine.

Joy is should your MOT station be one of the many run by experimental monkies, the HID lamps can be temporarily removed and a standard H4 glow bug fitted, you could even keep one fed in the glove box. The MOT station I went to were more than happy with the HID lites & is not run by monkies!!

Time to get me coat, hopefully this answers all questions but knowing you lot a list will follow

[Bondango]

As usuall Stuey, a most impressive and detailed install guide