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| 1JZ Technical Section Technical Queries related to 1JZ Engines |
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#1
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It's common practice to remove the Hydrofan system on the 1jz engine & install the 2jz pump & some sort of electric fan arrangement.
This aims to explain this completely with a definitive answer. Water pumps are prone to shaft seals drying out particularly during a build or when the engines stood for a while with no fluids. Sadly, this leak usually turns up when you first run the car with all your new fluids - joy! The part you will need is the 2jz water pump assembly, personally I highly recommend you buy the entire kit from Toyota as the kit is so very complete, is guaranteed to fit & comes with everything you need, it's not a bad price either. 2jz water pump assembly: 16100-49847 £115.00. (April 2010) ![]() You will also require a 2jz water pump pulley & the 4 bolts which hold it in place. 2jz water pump pulley: 16371-46020 £72.00 Nuts for pulley (need 4) 90179-08201 £? Now you may want to search Ebay for an under drive pulley set & use some of the pulleys from that set - it works out cheaper than the toyota kit & you get 4 pulleys for the price of 1. Search for: "ORG SUPRA JZA80 LEXUS CS300 SC300 JZS147 Light Pulley" Or similar. I do not recommend you actually install the crank under drive pulleys to this engine. The other parts I would also recommend you get due to them being disturbed are: Water outlet housing gasket: 16343-88400 £0.95 (April 2010) Turbo inlet gasket: 17376-88400 £2.00 (Approx) Front crank seal: 90311-46001 £16.30 (April 2010) May as well replace while timing gears out. To remove the hydrofan pump assembly you will need to: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY Drain Coolant system. Drain hydrofan fluid. Remove radiator & hydrofan with cowling. Remove hydrofan reservoir & interconnecting pipes. Unplug & peel back wiring from water temp sensors, alternator regulator, OX sens, PS sol. Remove the Ancillary belt. DO NOT LET THE ANCILLARY BELT TENSIONER SNAP BACK - IT CAN DAMAGE THE HOUSING Removing the alternator. Remove the lower radiator hose from pump housing. Remove the 2 bolts attaching the metal engine coolant pipe to the rear pump housing. Remove the 2 bolts holding the top water outlet pipe to block - this is best done by removing the front turbo inlet pipe bolts so you can move the pipe out the way to get to the water outlet bolts. The water outlet pipe then lifts off the top of the pump. Remove the crank pulley, timing covers, ancillary belt tensioner, cam belt tensioner & tensioner wheel & Cam belt. Remove the 6 bolts holding the water pump onto the block - note where they came from as 4 are different. Remove the water pump. You should now have the horrible oil filled hydrofan unit out the car! (impeller is missing from this one) ![]() You will need to swap over the link pipe from the top of your old pump & install it into your 2jz pump. replace the 2 orings (supplied with toyota pump) Clean up the oring sealing surface on block & install the oring, Vaseline will help keep it in place while fitting new pump. Install the water bypass pipe gasket to the studs & install the water pump. The correct bolt sequence & torques are HERE PAGE CO-11 Install nuts for water bypass pipe, Tq 15 FT/LB Install new stat gasket (supplied with toyota kit) Install stat, Tq 15ft/lb Install water outlet pipe & new gasket (16343-88400) Install bolts, Tq 15ft/lb. Be sure the gasket seats properly against block - it is a fiddle. Install new turbo inlet gasket & 2 bolts, Tq 15ft/lb Install timing gear, Follow steps HERE FROM PAGE EM-20 ![]() ![]() Install Ancillary belt tensioner, Tq 15ft/lb Install top timing cover. Install water pump pulley bolts x 4, Tq 12ft/lb Install alternator, nut & bolt, Tq 30ft/lb. Install ancillary belt. Reconnect wiring. That's it to swap the actual pump over. You will obviously need to install some electric fans, 2x 12" fit well. How you control these & wire them is up to you. I will cover how I modified the system in another thread. ![]() The space saving is vast over the hydrofan system that fouls up against all the running gear etc, particularly with performance rads! ![]() If you alternator got a soaking I would advise you rinse this with clean water & dry it out with compressed air or in an oven at 50'c for a while. personally I stripped mine down again to remove all traces of coolant. The 2j pump has a pipe nipple so you can pop a bit of tube on this & bring it down past the alternator to prevent future soakings if the shaft seal should go again. Hope this helps, Stuey @ Supradupra.com
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#2
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Fantastic writeup lad! Perfect timing too! Will be doing a stripdown tomorrow so will take blow by blow pictures to add to this!
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#3
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I might take a punt on this, but getting put off by it saying that it will not fit grey imports...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT Can anyone tell me what the difference is?? I thought a 2jz was a 2jz?
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#4
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That just don't look quite rite, something is in a different position.
This is why I went for the original Toyota part - I know that fits & we have picture evidence of it doing so Any other thread or part left way too many gaping holes & ??????
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~Stuey~ To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Pass on the information - Spread the knowledge.. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Heavily modded UK 7MGTE, 1JZGTE Aero LTD - modded by something heavy To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. & antother 1JZGTE Aero LTD - On going. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. - - To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#5
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Yea, i thought that, but a closer look at the pic shows its been pictured at an odd angle. Did some comparisons to your guide and i reckon it aligns up reasonably accurate.
50 quid, might as well take a punt...
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#6
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Email them your reg and do a check like it says, might be interested if it fts
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#7
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My reg is a 1jz car though, so it clearly wont fit...
The listing is for a 2jz pump.
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#8
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...and it doesnt fit. Chalk another one up for being a tight bastid and it biting you in the ****.
As Supradupra say folks, buy the genuine part, it will save you hassle in the long run! Im off for a slice of humble pie now.
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#9
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You have to buy the whole assembly - the pump housing (elbow on the back of the pump, shown on the right side of stueys first pic) is different for the hydraulic pump assy, so no standard Supra/GS300 pump with viscous coupling will fit the housing for what was a hydraulic setup.
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#10
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Yup, i am aware of that. I bought an entire pump assembly. None of it fitted.
Add to that chewing up 2 crank pulley pullers (including the Toyota one) and finding a oil seep fronm the steering rake, its safe to say my mojo is somewhat depleted right now.
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#11
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Did they send you a 1G or a 7M one by mistake??
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To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. 1990 Toyota Supra Mk3, 2954cc 7M-GTE, Lexus AFM, 550cc RC Injectors, FSE 255lph Fuel Pump, Turbosmart AFPR, Fensport Stage 1 Hybrid CT-26, HKS LET-16 Exhaust System (Elbow Back, DeCatted), Bailey Motorsports Recirculating BOV, Samco Hose Set, Silverline Racing Intercooler, 13-row Mocal Oil Cooler, HSD Coilovers, Mk4 16" 5-spoke Alloys w/ Toyo T1-R's I refuse to participate in any debate with creationists because doing so would give them the "oxygen of respectability" that they want. Creationists don't mind being beaten in an argument. What matters to them is that I give them recognition by bothering to argue with them in public. |
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#12
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Nope, its identical to a 1J bar the top water take off, which is at a different angle. I think it might be a non turbo pump...
Nonetheless, the seller has agreed to refund me the money minus postage, so not all bad.
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#13
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*Smugly wheels out previous comment*
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